Anghiari Palio

Anghiari is extraordinarily picturesque, but is only really famous due to the battle that took place in the plain below on 29 June 1440. This battle saw the Milanese take on the forces of Venice and Florence (under the Papal banner). Despite a huge amount of pomp and chest-puffing, the battle itself was a bit of a damp squib with no proper engagement, and only one man died (accidentally falling off his horse!). Leonardo da Vinci painted a large fresco depicting the battle in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence but this has now been lost and only a few cartoons exist which show a little of what the finished masterpiece would have been like.

Today the battle is cause for celebration and is marked with a foot race from the battle site in the valley up the incredibly steep hill to the town square - pretty tough going especially in the summer heat. It is also an excuse for pageantry and revelry with townsfolk dressing up in medieval costume, and entertained by the trumpets and drums of re-enactment groups from all over Tuscany, including the traditional football players from Florence, the band from Arezzo and the flag-throwers of Sansepolcro. And then a huge feast to finish of precedings at Castello di Sorci, a great restaurant in what used to be a stronghold of local condottiero (mercenary) Baldaccio. Definitely a great day out!