Video Blog: Tuscan Festivals

There are many big medieval festivals scattered around Tuscany. All have roots back many hundreds of years, but most of the modern reincarnations date from earlier this century under the auspices of Mussolini. The most famous palio is the one that takes place in Siena (twice a year) where the central square is transformed into a racecourse for a furious horse race with jockeys riding bareback on a horse representing the various contradas (quarters) of the city. There is much rivalry and sometimes a bit of violence too!

Other enjoyable celebrations include a rather boisterous antique version of soccer in Florence. From what I can see, the ball is almost irrelevent and it is just an excuse for a big punch-up. Sansepolcro hosts a big crossbow shooting competition, with the local team pitted against visitors from Gubbio (which then returns the compliment). As I have already mentioned, Anghiari stages a gruelling road race up its steep hill, while Caprese Michelangelo contents itself with a more sedate chestnut festival in October.

For me the most entertaining festival is that of the Giostra del Saracino in Arezzo. This is a jousting competition held in the main square where riders with lances score points on a small target fixed to a spinning mannequin, complete with ball and chain! Again the various quarters of the city compete for the prize of the golden lance. Much skill is needed, and the horses are fantastic.

La Befana vien da notte ...

Befana is the traditional Italian Christmas celebration which takes place on the 6th January, the feast of the Epiphany. Tradition says that at night on the 5th January, an old woman or witch, Befana, comes into your house and fills children's stockings with either sweets and gifts for the good or coal (carbone)for the bad. If she sees you while she is visiting she will hit you with her broomstick (manico di scopa)which she also uses as a form of transport. For anglo-saxons, the effect is like a weird mix of Christmas and Hallowe'en as the shops are full of witches on broomsticks. In fact, it is believed that the festival is older than either of those and dates back to pre-christian Roman times. Later, the festival was christianised and Befana becomes part of the story of the Epiphany as an old woman who showed hospitality to the three Kings or Magi on their way to find the baby Jesus.

I can happily confirm that I woke up this morning to find a mixture of sweets (Kinder assortment ... yum) and coal in my stocking. The coal was lovely ... mint flavoured ;)