Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475-1564)

Michelangelo was born into a small-scale Florentine banking family. In order to supplement income his father took up short-term government positions and it was during such an appointment, whilst a judicial administrator in Caprese, that circumstances saw the birth of one of history's greatest artists in such an unlikely place.

The family soon moved back to Florence where, as an apprentice, the young Michelangelo soon started showing his precocious talents. The rest, as they say, is history. Working for princes and popes, Michelangelo was a painter, engineer and architect, but most of all he was a sculptor. His most famous works include, of course, his statue of David (Florence), the dome of St.Peter's basilica (Rome) and the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel (Vatican).

Although having left Caprese as a small child, I am certain that he would have made return visits. The local landscape around Caprese is represented in a number of his paintings, and most obvious of all is the inclusion of the unmistakable outline of La Verna behind the reclining figure of the newly created Adam, the centrepiece of his ceiling fresco in the Sistine Chapel, and one of the world's most famous images. Surely it shows that Michelangelo always kept a small piece of Caprese in his heart?

Although Caprese does not possess a Michelangelo original, it is still a wonderful experience to wander around the old castle precincts, soaking up the atmosphere and a quick jaunt through the little museum, before having lunch at one our favourite local restaurants, Il Cerro, where you can eat like a king. A wonderful selection of starters, homemade pastas (smothered in either locally sourced porcini mushrooms or truffles) and freshly roasted meats will ultimately defeat even the biggest appetite - and fantastic value too!

Video Blog: Goats!

It's lambing ('kidding'?) time up at Valle di Mezzo, a farm run by my friend Brent Zimmerman. I paid a visit on Sunday afternoon to look at the new arrivals. Doubly interesting of course as Caprese is derived from the Italian 'capra' meaning 'goat' and there is a goat on the village coat of arms.

Piero della Francesca (c.1415-1492)

Two frescoes of world-wide renown are just a stones throw from Caprese. Both are by the Fifteenth Century artist Piero della Francesca who was born in nearby Sansepolcro. Forgotten for centuries after his death, and only rediscovered in the early Twentieth Century, Piero is now regarded as one of the greatest artists of his time and a pioneer of perspective.

Although he studied in Florence and worked at the court of Federico da Montefeltro in Urbino for several years, Piero was a true Tuscan at heart and never really abandoned his roots, which is probably why he saved his best works for commissions in his hometown and the village where his mother was born.

The Madonna del Parto is now housed on its own in a converted 1930's primary school in the village of Monterchi, a little hill-top town nestling on the Tuscan/Umbrian border. It's original location was the chapel at the the cemetary where Piero's mother was buried, and has since been moved to Sansepolcro and Florence (for "safe keeping") before being brought back and now fiercely protected by the Monterchi comune. The pregnant Virgin Mary (a very rarely portrayed subject) is revealed to the viewer by two angels. Rather controversially, she looks rather uncomfortable with the unborn baby Jesus obviously causing her some discomfort. However she still possesses a holy serenity and looks out at you with confident surety. Generations of pregnant women have prayed to the image to bless their own safe births, and even now anyone mothers-to-be are allowed free access into the museum!

The Resurrection of Christ is perhaps one of the most haunting paintings I have ever seen. It remains in its original place on the wall of Sansepolcro's old town hall, now the town's main art gallery. Jesus is portrayed emerging from the tomb while his guards remain sleeping at his feet. Whilst triumpant in resurrection, Jesus is also full of pathos as he looks out at you with solemn intensity. The painting is full of mysterious secrets including a strange strange use of two vanishing points which makes viewing the picture quite disconcerting.

Also close by, the Church of San Francesco in Arezzo holds Piero's masterpiece, The Legend of the True Cross. The subject is a medieval legend of great complexity, but Piero made from its fanciful details some of the most solemn and serene images in Western art — even the two battle scenes have a feeling of grim deliberation rather than violent movement (almost as if watching the action in slow motion). This fresco cycle took over thirteen years to complete. Contrary to normal practice, Piero would often cover the plaster with wet cloths overnight, allowing him to continue work on the same sections for more than a day.

I will never tire of visting these paintings. Once seen, the mesmeric images, a combination of limpid beauty and passive power, will remain with you forever.

Video Blog: Arezzo: Fiera Antiquaria

The Fiera Antiquaria is a large antiques fair which takes place every month in the city of Arezzo, near Caprese Michelangelo. You can buy all sorts of things, from antiques to bric-a-brac and modern arts and crafts. People come from all over Italy to see it. This was recorded on Saturday 6th February, which accounts for the rain!

Arancello: progress report

Just to report that the Arancello is going very well. Here's a picture of how the liquid has turned bright orange taking its colour from the orange peel alone. Just over two weeks to go. Can't wait :)

... and finally!

As if to celebrate the end of January, we awoke this morning to a couple of centimetres of snow. This was followed by the sun coming out, so it really looks magical here right now. Here are a couple of pics ...




Some trees ...

View from my house up to Alpe Faggetta.

View in the other direction towards Monte Fumaiolo.

Carnevale!

Although, technically, the Italian carnival season started on January 7th, immediately after Befana, it is this weekend that many of the comuni start their celebrations in earnest. And to celebrate, I though I would show you a mouth-watering plate of frittelle, the traditional carnival sweet. They are basically little sweet fritters that come in many varieties. These in the picture are stuffed with creme patissiere. Very yummy for breakfast with coffee :)



Carnival is an ancient festival connected with the Catholic Church. During the six-week period of Lent, Catholics prepare for the commemoration of the death and resurrection of Jesus by repenting their sins and living austerely. Traditionally, Carnival which leads up to Lent was a period when people used up all the luxury food items and had parties to get it out of their system before Lent began. Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent falls on 17 February this year, so until then 'let the good times roll!'

I am planning to visit one of the local Carnivals next weekend, so should have some pictures to post then.